Ford Taurus Forum

My LF and RR doors slosh when you close them after a good rain. I'm guessing the wiper seal at the bottom of the window opening.

Anyone else?

The plot thickens... "In case you were wondering, the bottom cushions latch into two plastic parts on the floor that have a little release lever. The backs have two bolts on each side to remove (13mm & 15mm) on the corners. Then you need to somehow find the two red fabric tethers that release the up...

It seems to release half of the seatback for removal...but I only have one, so can't remove the seatback.

Anybody else have this?

Yep, it's the pump. Figure $1400 to $1800 for the dealer to do, about 60 bucks if you do it yourself.
No local shop wanted to touch mine, so I HAD to take it to the dealer. Don't ignore this, or you will be needing a new engine when that pump starts leaking internally and dumps coolant in your engine.

Page 8 of the manual shows a grille lamp output on the 14 pin connector under the center dash. Maybe try that as your power source?

Hi, I'm looking for the "pigtail adapter" for lack of a better word, that plugs into it, and has 14 wires coming out that can be tapped. Can't seem to find the option for this specific 14-way options connector. The other two "Front Power" connectors have this "Inline Wire Harness" available, see th...

Leakage is the main one. Compressor clutch is the second. BTW, clutch won't engage if there is no refrigerant, so have it checked for leaks first.

Rule of thumb, 10mm per inch. Example;

245/55/18(stock)
255/45/19
265/35/20


This keeps you close to stock widths while allowing larger diameter.

I used this and it was plug and play. 12 volt power from the rear positive terminal block on the drivers side. https://www.etrailer.com/p-C56093.html?hhyear=2013&hhmake=Ford&hhmodel=Taurus I tow so seldom that I didn't route the connector to a permanent mounting location presuming that I would just...

Soda_can_dan wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 20, 2019 6:57 am

Which hitch did you purchase and how was the install? Any fabrications required? I’m looking to buy a hitch ASAP.

Brand: Hidden Hitch
Model# 87565

$175 on Amazon, go to the hitch thread for a video link of it's rather easy install...

Hey All,

Wondering what those who tow did for wiring. All the Taurus kits say "Without Police Package".
Everything is readily accessable, so I don't think it will be a difficult job to wire, I just want to know what others have done.

Thanks!

[/quote] Dammit, Jim! Well, my 2013 has the keypad - but doesn't respond to presses. haven't had time to take the door apart to see what the deal is yet. [/quote] That's my deal. I have buttons and wiring going down into the door, just no response. I'm not feeling pulling the door panel to investiga...

Then I can't help. Everything I read says that this is how you do it. My PI, you have to brake real hard, then it downshifts and chirps the tires, and I'm in pursuit mode.

Or, you could just cut the wires, solder them together, and put some heatshrink on there.

Remove the negative battery cable for a few minutes. That will reset the ecu.

I have a non-turbo, and I get 15mpg...but I drive it like I stole it.

Also, I did the switch, I have DRLs set to turn signals, and autolamp is on in Forscan.

...and my lights are on in bright daylight...back to square one...

MiekK wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 30, 2018 1:44 pm

That's how I did it, if there's an easier way, let us know.

I found an easier way.

Take two narrow plastic trim tools, position them at 9 and 3 on the larger outer bezel, and pop it right off. Swap switch, and pop it right back in.

There is a button module and wires behind my trim piece. So the physical stuff is there, it just needs the software side of things activated.

Now that you mention it...I think the Wife did get us unlimited.